AFTER THOUGHT TRIM, for stabilizing edges of knitted items.
For use on any knitting machine.
Hold up your work, Public side facing toward the operator.
Hang up edge onto knitting machine needles. Pull needles to holding position. (D on Silver Reed knitting machines)
Crochet cast-on onto the same needles, in front of the item. (Carriage and yarn on right side of bed.)
Row 1: Knit 1 row.
Row 2: Knit 1 row.
Row 3: Knit 1 row. (3 in total)
Row 4 …Pull needles to D. Move carriage ( free pass) to right hand side of bed.
Crochet cast-on on those needles. Knit 1 row, across the needle bed.
Row 5: Cast off all stitches. This trim may be left to look like a “roll” or can be steam blocked flat.
Mary Anne Cutler, Yet Another Canadian Artisan 2017
Working with Vintage yarns can be challenging. The yarns deriorate in a number of ways. Synthetics may become very brittle, unpleasant to work with on the hands and the project just doesn’t look or feel right when complete. Of course the dyed colours were popular at the time, but appear so garish to our eyes at this point in time.
Natuaral fibres are more forgiving, of which was mostly wool. The colours are more forgiving to the eye, but were/are subject to fading. Sometimes, this is a problem, other times not. Then, there are the critters. ……….The yarn breaks apart or strands are broken from an infestation of moths.
It has been recommended that whenever a vintage yarn is encountered, a treatment of a few hours in the freezer will kill any live bugs. Better to be safe than sorry, than spread the infestation among non-infected goods.
This yarn appears to have been sold in the 1980s and id’d by the style of labelling. Todays label information is far more complete for the user. Those were the times……no yardage/meterage.
The question to me was what to make with this yarn. I tried felted slippers. Success was not in the cards. They were felted over and over in the top loading washing machine, the dryer was brought into the mix, but they were very difficult to felt and sizing was difficult to attain.
Eventually, I cut them up for insoles for my “crocs” and the scraps wound for the start of a “dryer ” ball. Dogs also like these “dryer” balls.
These instructions are for a DIY adapter for mounting a KR7 on a variety of machines. The KR7 is the mechanical knit contour device made by and meant to be used with the Singer/Studio/Silver-Reed knitting machines for garment shaping.
I chose a 1″thick piece of wood, the length of the KR7 and 4 ” wide. I inserted a couple of screws, with the heads protruding , where they would match and fit into the holes on the bottom of the device. Then, place the device (KR7) attaching it onto the adapter board ( sliding it over the screw heads).
Place the unit at the appropriate height for the row tripper to trip the KR7. I used duck tape to attach the board securely onto my knitting table.
My newly designed screw board was approx 1” thick (high) approx 4″ wide and 22 “, the length of the Knit Contour device. A visit to a lumber yarn (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) may turn up a scrap piece of wood the needed size or they may cut one for you.
I have used it with the Superba, the Passap Duo80, the LK150 , the Brother Hobby 350.
Mary Anne Cutler, ON. Canada