Happy Canada Day 🇨🇦

We celebrate the holiday with family fun, food and fireworks. The town and cities usually have a fireworks showing in the local parks. This year Canada is 150 years old.  The link below is a photo slide show of various displays.

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After Thought Trim….for machine knitters

AFTER THOUGHT TRIM,  for stabilizing edges of knitted items.

For use on any knitting machine.
Hold up your work, Public side facing toward the operator.

Hang up edge onto knitting machine needles. Pull needles to holding position. (D on Silver Reed knitting machines)

Crochet cast-on onto the same needles, in front of the item.  (Carriage and yarn on right side of bed.)

Row 1: Knit 1 row.

Row 2: Knit 1 row.

Row 3: Knit 1 row.  (3 in total)

Row 4 …Pull needles to D. Move carriage ( free pass) to right hand side of bed.

Crochet cast-on on those needles. Knit 1 row, across the needle bed.

Row 5: Cast off all stitches. This trim may be left to look like a “roll” or can be steam blocked flat.

Mary Anne Cutler, Yet Another Canadian Artisan 2017

KR7 knit radar/contour adapter, DIY Instructions 

These instructions are for a DIY adapter for mounting a KR7 on a variety of machines. The KR7 is the mechanical knit contour device made by and meant to be used with the Singer/Studio/Silver-Reed knitting machines for garment shaping.

I chose a 1″thick piece of wood, the length of the KR7 and 4 ” wide.  I inserted a couple of screws, with the  heads protruding , where they would match and fit into the holes on the bottom of the device. Then, place the device (KR7) attaching it onto the adapter board ( sliding it over the screw heads).

Place the unit at the appropriate height for the row tripper to trip the KR7. I used duck tape to attach the board securely onto my knitting table.

My newly designed screw board was approx 1” thick (high) approx 4″ wide and 22 “, the length of the Knit Contour device. A visit to a lumber yarn (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) may turn up a scrap piece of wood the needed size or they may cut one for you.

I have used it with the Superba, the Passap Duo80, the LK150 , the Brother Hobby 350.

Mary Anne Cutler, ON. Canada

HOW TO SELL a KNITTING MACHINE for NON KNITTERS

A Guideline on How to SELL a KNITTING MACHINE for NON Knitters

A knitting machine is a complex item. There are various levels of complexity and are priced accordingly. Most of the machines in the Used Marketplace are 20 to 30 years old, some with electronics that are also 30 years old. Some are metal, some are plastic, some are mechanical. It all matters.

1. Find the MANUALS. They should be nearby the knitting machines, but often have been placed on a bookshelf.

2. There is a page near the front of the manual that shows a PICTURE of all the pieces that came with the machine and should be sold with the machine. The manuals, the punchcards, the mylar pattern reader cards.

3. GATHER the pieces together. Clean them if necessary. A Dirty, dusty machine will not bring in the best dollar.

4. DETERMINE the Brand and Model name and number. This is necessary for advertising and fielding questions from buyers. This will also indicate the complexity of the machine.

5. PHOTOS. Take pictures of the pkg and closeups of the main pieces. Take photos of the covers of the manuals and any other books or yarns that you are including in your sale.

6. ADVERTISE locally first. A local pickup is best. Do mention Your CITY. Some buyers will take a roadtrip to you or meet in the middle. If, there is a Knitting Machine dealer nearby, the owner may take it in on consignment or purchase it.

7. SHIPPED knitting machines often arrive at their destination DAMAGED due to insufficient packing. The goods travel on conveyor belts and drop into large sized bins and drop 4 ft or so. The machines, being heavy on one end, flip and fall on their ends, damaging the machine. The plastic parts on the machine are becoming brittle with age and cracks and break. Replacement plastics are very difficult to locate for repair. When shipping, be prepared to spend time and materials for safe transit. Solid styrofoam on the ends of the machines for cushioning during transit. Peanuts are NOT adequate. Double boxing is best.

8. PRICING is probably the most difficult aspect. 1/2 price of the original price is fair and a good start. If, the electronics are questionable, then the value becomes much less to almost $0.00 as some Brands no longer have replacement parts. It would then be considered a PARTS MACHINE. Most manufacturers have ceased production, 10 to 15 years ago.

Although, you may not be familiar with knitting machines, following the above suggestions, should result in a win/win sale.

Yet Another Canadian Artisan 2015
Mary Anne Cutler,

http://www.cutlermac.wordpress.com

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Frustrated new Knitting Machine users……some suggestions

On the knitting forums, I have been reading about knitters that are new to the use of the Knitting Machine and are frustrated. Machine knitting has quite a learning curve. It is not a matter of threading the yarn and pushing the carriage across the a bed full of needles.

The first place to learn about knitting with the mainbed and/or the ribber is the Manual that came with the Machine. It’s somewhat like cooking. If, it’s not done right, it goes into the garbage. As we all know, some cooking recipes require a knowledge of basics and others are very detailed. Knitting machine patterns are the same.

Begin at the front of the manual. If, your manual is downloaded from the internet, print it out. You will be glad you did. I know it is alot of pages, they are ALL important. Then, proceed to work your way throughout the various samples. Each sentence is important, each setting on the diagram is important. Watch the needles and the yarn on every row and recognize what is happening.

Jumping around the manual is a waste of time and frustrating, because you won’t know why you are executing a particular setting.

Trying to sort out a problem on a group list is helpful, but the readers need to know specific settings, type of yarn, machine being used etc to solve the problem. One machine cannot use all weights of yarn.

Lastly, a new knitter needs classes of one sort or another, be it a DVD, a seminar, private classes from a local tutor. A 2 minute You tube video is not enough until you have learned the basics.

Vogue Live often hosts the renowned Susan Guagliumi teaching classes on the SilverReed knitting machine and would be well worth the bucks, especially, if one is local. For out of towners, a day or a weekend in the Location site is worth the time spent as there are other knitting events going on throughout the weekend.

Mary Anne Cutler
http://www.cutlermac.wordpress.com

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Machine knitters………Angelikas yarn store in the USA

http://www.yarn-store.com/silver-reed-knitting-machines.html

Angelika has posted a Silver Reed knitting machine catalogue on the website listing the currant products that are available new.
This is a great resource along with the other pages of information for machine knitters.

When purchasing a “new” machine the knitter can be assured that all the pieces, manuals etc are included. During the learning curve, the new knitter can be assured that the knitting mishaps are operator error and NOT the machine.

Sometimes simple is better…….

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I tripped upon this yarn and love at first sight. I loved the colouring of the “nubs”.
I sampled this and that stitch, but not really happy with any of them. Crochet was troublesome. Then, I tried plain ordinary garter stitch. It looked best, no pooling of the coloured nubs. It felt nice to the hand even though the label said MIxed Fibre, Polyester acrylic, it felt somewhat like chenille.

Method:
8mm needles and a cast on of 20 stitches. Width is 6 1/2 ” wide and 2 balls long.
Garter stitch every row.

A little TIP. I knit through the back loop of the knit stitch. It gives the stitch a little twist and holds its’ shape better.

So far, it’s looking like a scarf, but I’m not done yet. 🙂

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A scarf it became. 2 balls, 50 gm each made a 60″ scarf with 4 in of yarn leftover.
It looks great on a black coat or sweater.

American Doll outfit

I used 1 ball (50 gm) of self striping sock yarn (Debbie Norville Serenity sock Yarn), a fingering weight, wool/bamboo mix. on a 2.75 mm needle. Lovely for knitting doll clothes.

There was enough yarn for a dress and underpanties for the American Girl 18″ doll.

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The velcro back closure was fixated with “steam a seam” glue on tape. My velcro is a bit heavier than that on the store bought doll clothes, but none was available to me. NOTE: it didn’t work well and I ended up sewing it in place.

The pattern is quite a bit of a deviation from what is generated by Knitware Basic Software.
I can’t say enough good things about that Knitting Software.

Patterning is achieved by random stitch combinations, hopefully to enhance the yarn stripes.

If, anyone wants to knit one without instructions, I would suggest a cast-on of approx 90 stitches for the hem edge and then decrease approx 10 stitches evenly spaced near the waistline.

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My granddaughter took the last photo. She’s acquiring photography skills. 2 thumbs up!

FREE PATTERN………Little Travel Sacks or Soapy washcloth

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These small sacks were knit on a Standard Gauge Studio/Singer Mod 360 punchcard knitting machine.

Tuck stitch, using one of the standard punchcards. (#3 or 7).The yarn is a smooth cotton that knitted at Tension dial 7.
40 stitches wide over needles 20-0-20.
Rows….as many as you want for the depth of the bag. (60 or so)

If, you wish to make the holes for the cord, transfer every other stitch onto its neighbour, but keep the empty needle in working position. Knit a few more rows and cast off.

Sew up seams in your preferred method. I use crochet chain stitch.

The Bluish/green coloured sacks were knit using the SAME punchcard. Both sides are quite nice.

I find these items to be very useful when travelling.